A Passage to Milna

The winds have turned against us so we abandon ideas of going to Katina and head south.  We let loose our lazy lines at 9 a.m. and our eta is given as 17.30h.  I have my Ryvita and marmite breakfast and we then make the passage in pairs with two hour watches.  We make our way down through the Kornatski Kanal and out into more open water.  I took the helm at 11.30 and during my watch Nick made us omelettes and we ate fresh fruit, then coffee and biscuits.  Whilst off watch I took a break on my bunk with my novel and slept.  I took Verity again at 15.30h passing along the seaward coast of Solta.  At the southern end we approached the narrow strait between it and Brac; we are heading for the small port of Milna.

At this point I passed the boat to Nick and we found a pleasant anchorage just outside the Milna embayment where I took a welcome swim, showered and washed my hair on the stern.  After drinks on board with a wonderful sunset view, Carolyn cooked us chicken and mushrooms which we enjoyed with the potatoes which had been doggy-bagged after our Peka Lamb.

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In the morning the sea was rather choppy but I swam anyway and after breakfasting we picked up and motored into Milna, dropping anchor in the middle of the town harbour.  Now was the time to go ashore to reprovision, buy postcards, stamps and have a coffee on the quay.  After a salad lunch there was a long siesta for me then a walk around the harbour to the marina where I scrumped a prickly pair to pot up in England.  Big mistake – the numerous fine spines become detached very easily and embed themselves in the fingers.  I was still pulling them out the next day.

After our cocktail hour on the boat we went ashore to eat at a Restaurant called Palma.  Mike had picked this establishment out and we had booked a table.  The menu contained some unusual dishes, one of which included fried sea anemones – something I have never seen before and had not dreamt to be edible. To start I chose pasta with snails, smoked ham and sprouts (Brussels to my amazement) the followed with the sea anemone dish.  They were a very creamy and rich squiggleness, a bit like fish milt and I doubt I would choose them again.  Also on my platter were scallops stuffed with Gorgonzola and shrimps together with grilled octopus.  Nick chose squid stuffed with quinoa and shrimps.  Back on board we made coffee and played Barbu until bedtime.

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Awaking early I read for a while and played bridge on my bunk then rose to finish writing my postcards.  With no possibility of a swim in the harbour we decided to do a walk over the headland to Zucica where there is a konoba right on the sea’s edge, owned by a former professional footballer (Tottenham Hotspur).  Beneath the trees and amid the cicada cacophony we looked through the canopy to the choppy waters beneath our table and drank a beer.

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Walking back to Verity we repassed the olive trees, the grape vines, fig trees and occasional almond trees bearing a few residual nuts.  We found a very agreeable restaurant in a corner of Milna set back from the edge of the quay.  I ate a delicious octopus salad and by now I was very weary and keen to find my bunk, but back on board we needed to up anchor to go back to the small bay of the previous night with the large house which has an overgrown garden and a small colonnade near the beach.

I melted into my bunk and knew nothing until I woke at 6!  I had a good swim before drinks and supper.  We spent the evening on board and completed our game of Barbu.


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