A wakeful night prompted a bit of lamplight reading and I drifted back, to wake finally at 8 o’clock. I swam off the boat, exercised and washed my hair off the stern with the hot water shower hose. Such a treat. After a breakfast we loosened the lazy lines and headed north towards the Kornatis. We are sailing along the ocean-facing edge of the island archipelago. The islands are at the southeastern end have sheer cliff faces and as we sail past Mana we can see stick figures along the precipitous top of the island waving down to us.
With a length of 35 kilometres (22 miles) comprising 140 islands, some large, some small, in a sea area of about 320 square kilometres (124 sq mi), the Kornati Islands form the densest archipelago in the Mediterranean Sea. When we sail past Levrnaka we get a chance to motor into the small bay where there is a ‘beach’, of sorts, created by the importation of a substantial quantity of limestone rubble to create a shore. This ‘beach’ is one of very few in the Croatian island archipelago. As we idle, two park wardens arrive and attempt to fleece us for park dues, telling us (erroneously) that if we pay them, then our ticket will be good for the Telašćica Park too! As if we would have any hope of tracking them down after to claim a refund!!
We press on looping between Sestrica and Abav and thus enter the southeastern end of Lake Telašćica (pronounced Telashchitza). Arriving at the southern end of the western limb of Dugi Otok we anchor in an embayment, have a swim, eat our salad in the cockpit then have a snooze. I sleep on through the lifting of the anchor and suddenly find we are at the end of the deeply incised bay which is called Lake Telašćica. I read a little, then make the chicken curry for which I have brought the necessary spices. I do this because the Taverna Govo where we hoped to eat Peka Lamb is closed that evening.