……It’s great to be fully afloat again on this peerless Oyster; the good ship Verity is ever shipshape and Bristol fashion. We’ve had the usual pre-voyage tasks to complete, marina fees to pay, laundy to collect, odd items of provisioning we forgot yesterday, Euros to change into Kuna.
Motoring out of Marina Frapa we set course for Zut and hit a nauseous residual swell. Hardly surprising since the fetch is coming straight across the Adriatic. With my elasticised wristbands, and a polartec-lined jacket belonging to Mike I sit in the stern with the wide brim of my sunhat pulled firmly down and my face in the wind. After an hour and a half we come into the shelter of Zirje, at the southern end of the Kornatis and the swell abates markedly.
Fortified by Ainsley Harriot’s superior cuppa soups and Carolyn’s filled rolls we motor through the day passing through the now familiar karst/limestone islandscape of the Kornati archipelago. We sail between Kornat and Zut. There is late afternoon sunshine as we pass previous haunts such as Sali on the eastern side of Dugi Otok and the island of Rava where we had a most memorable meal with Mike and Carolyn in 2006. They went back with other friends in 2009 but as so often happens with restaurants, there had been a change of management and the meal they had was lack-lustre and expensive.
Our overnight anchorage is to be at Brbinj, coincidentally the first anchorage of our first sailing trip in Croatia. There is a single buoy and we are the only boat in the north part of the cove which is sheltered from all winds.
I prepare a small selection of bites to take with drinks which we have in the cockpit, gazing out over the utterly still surface of the water. There are no singing cicadas this early in the season. A few houses are nestled into the gentle hillside slope across the bay. We feel quite alone.
Carolyn has prepared spaghetti Bolognese which we eat in the saloon. It’s been Election Day in the UK and over cheese, wine, coffee a lively debate ensues. Nick and I have also been negotiating on the Dorset house offer. So with a sense of anticipation for results to come we go to our cabins and are gently rocked to sleep.